Monochrome Watches
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Revisiting The Most Notable Watches Of Watches & Wonders 2022

As we head towards Watches & Wonders 2023, let's look back at some of last year's highlights.

| By Robin Nooy | 5 min read |
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G Calatrava Vintage Hobnail

You can’t determine where you’re going without knowing where you’ve been, right? And as watchmaking companies regularly look in the rear-view mirror for inspiration for future collections and references, we’re going to do the same. In a change from our regular weekly Buying Guide where we group watches around a common theme, we’re revisiting the watches of Watches & Wonders from last year. We felt it would help to refresh the collective memory of what were the most notable pieces from 2022, now that Watches & Wonders 2023 is basically just around the corner. Out of everything presented, we selected the 8 pieces that stood out to us and will tell you why. So without further ado, let’s dive straight in!

Tudor Black bay Pro

And dive straight in we shall, with one of the best value-for-money watches of the entire fair. The Tudor Black Bay Pro presented in 2022 is a true GMT watch, with a high-performance movement and simply looks the part. The fixed steel bezel gives it an obvious Explorer-like vibe, while the solid luminous ceramic indices and yellow GMT hand add a modern touch. Priced at EUR 4,120 it’s not exactly cheap but not crazy expensive either. More details in our hands-on here.

Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT 79470

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Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G

While we’re a big fan of the salmon 5172G, to us, the best-in-show for Patek Philippe was the Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G. Why? Primarily because it’s not a typical Patek. It blends classical elements with contemporary ones, in a surprising mix of styles. The case construction for instance, with the Clous de Paris caseband and ‘floating’ lugs. And let’s not forget that practical yet complex movement! The price is steep though, at EUR 78,000. More details in our in-depth here.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G Calatrava Vintage Hobnail

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Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

The Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon by Grand Seiko really wowed us, as it was the first watch with a tourbillon and constant-force mechanism on a single axis. Not only is it mechanically very impressive, but it also looks outrageously cool! The openworked movement lets you enjoy its complexity in all its glory, with the time on a skeleton subdial at the top. Captured in a gorgeous, modern-looking case, it was limited to 20 pieces at EUR 370,000 each. More details here.

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Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante made the list thanks to its clever and very useful GMT complication. Two central hour hands, one for home time and one for local time, can be split or aligned on demand thanks to the pushers in the crown and the lower-left lug. Simple, practical, and elegant, just like the entire Tonda PF collection, basically. Executed in stainless steel with a platinum bezel, it is priced at CHF 26,000. More information is in our hands-on.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

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A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Titanium Limited Edition

We’re ignoring the fact the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Titanium Limited Edition costs about twice as much as a stainless steel Odysseus, for the sheer fact it is an all-out amazing watch. The finishing is just on another level, especially for a luxury sports watch. The contrasting brushed and polished surfaces, paired with that blue-grey dial give it a wonderful new flair. And last but not least, that movement! The Price? A cool EUR 55,000. More details in our hands-on here.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Titanium 363.117

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium

The collection of pilot’s watches by IWC is extremely versatile, with plenty of sizes, materials, colours, and complications on offer. One of the very best is the stealthy Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium. The titanium-ceramic composite gives it a tactile look and feel, with a grey-on-black dial and a tinted crystal around the back. And sized at 41mm in diameter, it fits just about anyone! This modern classic retails for EUR 13,500. More info in our video-review here.

IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium IW388106

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Vacheron Constantin historiques 222

The star of the show beyond a shadow of a doubt was the rebirth of the iconic 222, now part of the Historiques collection by Vacheron Constantin. This legendary luxury sports watch made a return in a very faithful execution in tasty yellow gold. Other materials are bound to follow in the future, but this one is so good! It looks amazing, has all the right details and can rely on a very good modern movement. This non-limited beauty costs EUR 62,000. Learn all about it in our video review here.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Re-Edition Yellow Gold

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Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR “Destro”

And lastly, the most controversial one from last year’s fair; the Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR “Destro”. By Rolex standards, introducing a watch with the crown, date and cyclops on the left side is very bold and unexpected! It was ridiculed at first, but it has since found its fanbase. And yes, for left-handed people it might be perfect! Also, being a Rolex, the fit and finish are impeccable. The Lefty-Rolex costs EUR 11,200 on an Oyster bracelet but prices on the grey market have doubled by now. More details can be found here.

Rolex GMT-Master II Destro Green-Black 126720VTNR

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5 responses

  1. People will hate the Destro but I’m glad it’s in and not the moonswatch

  2. Thank you for not trying to sell me any of these watches directly. This lends great weight to your reviews and opinions and just know it is appreciated and welcomed. Monochrome continues to be a fantastic resource and we thank you for it.

  3. I have always enjoyed your articles and look forward to future readings. One area I would like to learn more about are Micro Brands. Is it just me or has this sector of watch production ballooned over the past few years. Current offerings are of a much higher quality than in the past and your insight into that portion of the industry would be appreciated.

  4. I wouldn’t touch a new Rolex these days, especially at the price and I think the Patek is the most remarkable, going out of their way into a field-watch style, sure it’s en voooooogue, but hey, it’s Patek, they weren’t supposed to be on it, but they are, just like Hamilton. LOL.

    for that reason, the destro Rolex is my favorite, here. Let them hate it, it wants to be hated and so does the wearer.
    but it’s the only really cool watch.

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